IT’S THE BIGGEST DEAL IN SANTA FE. Every year, 150,000 collectors and visitors descend on Indian Market to view the work of 1,200 of the top Native American artists from tribes across the country.
As the micaceous potter Lonnie Vigil puts it: “It’s the place where the makers and receivers of our works come together in a special appreciation of the art.”
It started in 1922 and is the oldest and largest juried Native American art show in the world. In that year, winners were awarded a first prize of $5. This year, the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts (SWAIA), who organizes the event, expects over $160 million in revenue.
In honor of this year’s 100th anniversary of Indian Market, we worked with photographer Leah Rose to create portraits of some of the artists. They are photographed in the designs of Josh Tafoya, a Mestizo weaver from Taos. Josh uses, as he explains, “textiles, constriction, and illustration to translate concepts of culture, heritage, and the ideas of modern tribalism.”
His materials are drawn from the wool of the sheep his grandfather raised and from the weavings of his grandmother. The designs are “inspired by the way Native Americans drape themselves with blankets in the winter.”
Leah Rose, an enrolled member of the Keweenaw Bay Ojibwa tribe, is an accomplished photographer whose work is in the permanent collection of the Portland Art Museum. Leah gives all the proceeds of her work to community causes to raise awareness. She shoots, she says, to “pass down stories of my heritage.”
We spoke to her about the stories in these pages.
Why did you pick these artists to shoot?
I am a huge admirer of each of these artists. I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to get them all to come to the studio, but it turned out to be surprisingly simple. Everyone wanted to be part of it. Some native artists are really competitive, but honestly, it’s a strong community; we really support each other.
These are portraits, but they’re also fashion — everyone is wearing Josh Tofoya designs.
I see these more as portraits. Believe me, I tried fashion photography for a while, but it felt pointless and stressful. This is different. These pictures are stories; they reconnect us with our heritage. I draw inspiration from Indigenous people, the land, and storytelling – to me, that’s what these pictures are about. Oh, and everybody loved wearing Josh’s clothes.
Tell me about Reggie and Bronson.
Reggie and his son Bronson are amazing traditional silversmiths; I’ve gotten to know them through the markets in New Mexico. They are fifth- and sixth-generation Dine and live in Bernalillo. Reggie works in sand and tufa casting, and Bronson is a silversmith but also a serious mixed martial artist. Like, serious. You know the TV show Vice? They did an episode on Bronson.
How about Kiani?
I’ve been a huge fan of Kiani’s beadwork forever. I always scout it out on Pinterest. When I found out she was doing Indian Market this year, she was my first call for the shoot! By the way, she’s wearing her earrings in the picture.
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Photo Leah Rose
